Chris Markell’s career as a winemaker tells a story of the evolving Sonoma County wine business throughout the past four decades.
Rumblings of change were just beginning in the sleepy towns of Sonoma in the 1970s and 1980s. Italian immigrants had farmed here for generations, transforming crops from vines to prunes to hops and back to vines. Now newcomers were investing in our valleys. Distinguished wine families like Remy/Piper Heidsieck crossed the ocean from France to plant vines in the Russian River Valley. The Ferrer family of Spain laid down roots in the Sonoma Carneros appellation. The global world of wine was expanding to include California.
At this same time, Chris, born and raised in California received his first home winemaking kit at age 16.
“That was it for me,” he recalled. “The wine was horrible, but the dream was strong.”
Following this dream, he went to UC Davis with viticulture as his declared degree from day one. Prior to tossing his cap and tassel to the wind, Chris spoke to his advisor, the esteemed Dr. Harold Olmo, a pioneering viticulturist and professor, about doing an internship in France where it all began. Olmo wrote to his friend, a vigneron with properties in Champagne, Bordeaux and in the south of France.
Using sign language and what became a well-worn dictionary to learn the language and better understand the culture, Chris settled into the home of Olmo’s friend, M. Bauchet, and his family. He traded work for housing in Avize in the Cote de Blanc. A three-month visit turned into a full year cycle of studying the four seasons of both the vines and winemaking in Champagne.
Chris returned home and landed his first job at Simi Winery in 1977. Their consultant, André Tchelistcheff, who was considered by many to be the winemakers’ winemaker, appreciated Chris’ background in Champagne and in working with vineyards.
At the young age of 26, Chris was offered responsibility for launching Piper Sonoma, the first French sparkling wine house in Sonoma County. From construction of the new winery and planting of the vineyards, to hiring staff and setting procedures, Chris, with a talented staff, made the 1982 Brut Reserve which received the highest rating from the Wine Spectatorfor a domestic sparkling wine at the time.
France called once again, and 13 years later Chris returned. This time to Burgundy, making Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with Jean-Marc Morey in the village of Chassagne-Montrachet.
“The two most memorable harvests out of 44 are the two I did in France. It’s more of a celebration there where everyone works together in the family-owned wineries. It’s jovial, everyone works hard, but everyone celebrates,” reflected Chris.
Then on to Australia: New adventure, new country, new continent. In Victoria and Tasmania, Chris laid out new vineyards while overseeing 11 grape varieties on 300 acres, making still and sparkling wines.
The international weave of Chris’ career continued as he returned to California and the Napa Valley to become Director of Vineyard and Winery Operations for Clos Du Val Wine Company. He continued to hone his winegrowing and business skills. Four years later, back to Taltarni Vineyards and Clover Hill Vineyards and Winery in Australia, this time as Chief Executive Officer.
Now, as an international wine consultant, Chris Markell continues to travel the world in pursuit of fine winemaking. From Sonoma through Highway 128 to Napa, France to Australia, and more recently Chile to Maui, Chris always returns home to Geyserville. His sense of this place is strong. It was here, above the vineyards of Alexander Valley where Chris opened that winemaking kit that mapped the course of his life.
Balancing his life as he balances his wines, Chris honors his inherent love of nature when planting and tending vines. His scientific and artistic gifts come forth when blending wine. And, the business of it all comes naturally, as Chris’ greatest pleasure is seeing people enjoy his wines. It is rare these days to find one person willing and able to take on these many roles.
So how, you might be asking, does Chris’ career parallel the evolving story of Sonoma County? In these same 44 years, while Chris was going out into the world and returning home with lessons learned, winegrowers from around the world were coming here. This global sharing of wisdom and diverse varietals of wine creates one world of wine, regardless of where it is made.
