Wine words

Generational farming
Generational farming is capturing my attention for many reasons. As I learn more and more about small family wineries being sold to larger and often corporate entities, I wonder how we will continue the legacy established by family farmers.
The good news is that, according to our agricultural leaders, land stewardship is the foundational principle of many of our local farmers and ranchers, and 71 percent of Sonoma County farms are 50 acres or less.
There are indeed some worthy examples of wineries sold to families who value the roots of the purchased property, while upholding the traditions of a storied past. Two examples that come to mind are MacMurray Estate Vineyards and Thomas George Estates.
When the Gallo family purchased the late Fred MacMurray Ranch, they had the wisdom to entice the gracious Kate MacMurray to join them in launching the MacMurray brand. The families unite with their ties to this 1,500-acre property; resplendent with old growth oaks, redwood trees and indigenous wildlife.
The Gallos maintain the vitality of this land and have faithfully restored the original buildings. Most impressive to me is that Kate MacMurray remains on the land as a spokesperson, sharing her family heritage begun in 1941 that continues today through her collaborative efforts with the Gallo family.
It is also admirable that the father-and-son team of Thomas and Jeremy Baker wove Davis Bynum, the person and the legacy, into the fabric of their new Thomas George Estates, formerly Davis Bynum Vineyard & Winery. While continuing to focus on site-specific Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays grown in the cool heart of the Russian River Valley, they acknowledge Davis Bynum as a partner in their history.
Davis’ story as the first person to establish a winery on Westside Road and the first to bottle Pinot Noir using the Russian River Valley appellation continues with the Thomas George brand.
One of my favorite Bynum stories is about when Davis tasted neighboring Rochioli Pinot Noir grapes that were sold to Martini & Prati for their “black blend” in the early 1970s. Davis immediately offered Joe Rochioli, Sr. a whopping $400 per ton for these grapes. It didn’t take long for Davis to create a single-vineyard-designated wine and the rest, as they say, is history.
What is more and more rare these days is true generational succession in California’s wine business. Unlike our European colleagues, our farming lifestyle doesn’t seem to unconditionally attract one generation to the next. It is rare indeed to have a family farming the same land for six generations. This is the case, however, with the Robert Young family on their 450-acre Alexander Valley property, which was settled by their ancestors in 1858.
When the scions (offshoots or heirs) of Robert Young established their winery in 1995, I had the privilege of launching it with marketing and public relations.
Now, many years later, I’m thinking a lot about generational farming as the Young family works to integrate the fifth and sixth generations into their winegrowing business. (Disclosure: the author of the column is working with the Young family as a consultant).
Working with family is not for the faint of heart. It demands patience and a passion for the outcome, which in this case means honoring a tradition that began 158 years ago. Not many families can boast this sense of longevity and loyalty in preserving a sense of place.
Being stewards of the same land generation after generation is arguably the highest form of sustainability. And, it’s not just the land and the Young family that benefit. There are generations of families who have worked side-by-side in the vineyards with the Youngs throughout the years — generations of families who have grown up together in honoring this land.
Relevance for today: These exquisite properties encompass some of the most breathtaking lands and vistas in Sonoma County. It certainly shows that those who had the good fortune to arrive early settled on the choicest terrain. Preserving these parcels of contiguous acreage devoted to agriculture is how we will maintain the agricultural integrity of Sonoma County for generations to come.
Marie Gewirtz represents wine and food clients with marketing and communications in Sonoma County and throughout the world. She can also be found maneuvering tractors on the banks of the Russian River with her two-year-old grandson. She can be reached at

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