By Daedalus Howell
When one thinks of celebrations at The Matheson in downtown Healdsburg (the town’s de facto club room), one usually goes straight to the top, literally the top-floor Roof 106 brasserie and bar where all manner of shindigs have occurred over the years. However, this year’s release of Valette Wines, which shares a proprietor with The Matheson, was a decidedly ground-floor affair.
This is apropos since guests like me could hardly make it down the stairs after such a generous offering of exemplary wines. Last weekend, a two-day launch event was held for wine club members and accredited media members (a brave choice given our higher consumption rates), showcasing the liquid assets portion of chef Dustin Valette’s portfolio of Michelin-rated restaurants and a preview of the restaurant’s Thanksgiving-themed menu (separate and succulent prime rib and turkey offerings, the former with a savory horseradish sauce and the latter with a piquant cranberry sauce).
Valette Wines are made by a dream team of local winemakers—a rogue’s gallery that includes name-brand notables Jesse Katz, Bob Cabral, Tom Rochioli and David Ramey.
The 2020 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir punches above its weight with its combo of brooding and bright berry notes—its wine is a pensive fellow, like a favorite cat, with a whisper of orange oil as an after-kiss on the palate, a delightful pie-crust toastiness. Likewise, the 2021 Valette Cabernet Sauvignon received a 100-point rating from Owen Bargreen of Wine Spectator, who described the wine as having “serious concentration, power and texture”—agreed.
Murals line the upper walls of The Matheson in a manner that recalls the stained glass windows of a church, each a piece of narrative art that tells a story. One features Valette’s father, a retired firefighter known for his aerial missions, as he pilots a plane to douse flames. Likewise, his grandfather was a baker, which is dutifully depicted on the opposite wall. All of this underscores Vallette’s commitment and respect for lineage and place—which, to borrow a term of newsroom marketing parlance, is “hyper-local.” In a moment of rapid corporate consolidation of Wine Country, this is rare enough to be savored on its own.
The staff at The Matheson is courteous, attentive, friendly and conversant in all their offerings. Go alone, and one will be embraced. Bring a crowd, and be the hero of the table.
Wine tastings, paired with small bites designed by Chef Valette, are offered from noon to 3pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The Matheson boasts a daily happy hour from 4-6pm, featuring Valette Wines (and others on their wine wall) for 30% off.
The Matheson, 106 Matheson St. For tasting reservations, visit valettewines.com/reservations.
