There are certain times of the year here in Sonoma County when you feel compelled to, you really must, work with certain foods. It is almost criminal not to, because they grow so beautifully, and most of all they taste out of this world.
There are even festivals celebrating them. Tomatoes are a summer-to-fall crop and they are now — heirlooms, cherries, salads, beefsteaks, Romas, whatever your preference.
Maybe you have a few plants in your backyard, maybe you have a go-to grower at your local farmers’ market, or maybe your favorite restaurant is serving up tomatoes every which way but loose. Whatever the case, tomatoes are here, and it is time to get to work and/or eat and explore tomato-based dishes while they are still in season.
Traveling in the southern region of France in September (pre-peach farm), I was stunned with the produce, especially tomatoes. They were so bright and fresh, flavor exquisite, texture perfect, unlike anything I had experienced.
When we bought the farm (18 years ago), I felt I was experiencing a real peach for the first time, and tomatoes were even better than what I remembered in France. In our small garden where we grow row crops, it was a revelation, biting into that first tomato, picked ripe from the vine and still warm from the summer sun.
Also when we bought the farm, in Geyserville, restaurant Santi was a favorite, and we would go there after a long work day. Dining in restaurants took on a whole new meaning as a grower and supplier. We marveled that such a small town could have a restaurant of such high caliber. Top sourced ingredients used at their peak, dishes prepared from scratch, meats hunted and/or raised locally, neighboring wines featured and paired perfectly.
From restaurant Santi sprung chefs Ari Rosen of Campo Fina in Healdsburg, Dino Bugica of Diavola and Geyserville Gun Club, and Liza Hinman of Spinster Sisters in Santa Rosa. Also, Domenica Catelli would once again reopen the Santi family space with Catelli’s.
If you visit these restaurants and so many in Sonoma County, you will find tomatoes featured throughout menus, in all their brilliance and glory. I asked these chef restaurateurs what they like to do best with tomatoes, and of course their responses varied.
Ari: “Gazpacho. The key is dry farmed tomatoes, aged balsamic vinegar and a Vitamix (blender). Marinate tomatoes, cucumbers and sweet peppers in balsamic, then blend in the Vitamix. Serve cool, with a balsamic drizzle.”
Dino: “My favorite is the dry farmed Paul Robeson tomato. At home I make a tomato salad with sweet onions, ginger, green onion, watercress and parsley. I drizzle all these ingredients with extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, lime juice and lots of fish sauce. Serve with or over seared beef sliced thin and warm rice.”
Domenica: “I love Sungolds. In the morning, I’ll make an egg taco; scramble eggs with hot pepper, top with arugula and Sungolds. You can add them to most anything, they’re so versatile and fresh and everything tastes better. Plus, my daughter has always loved them too.”
Liza: “We are serving a delicious grilled Halloumi and tomato salad. It’s kind of a Greek take on a classic Caprese salad. It has black olives, some of the amazing Armenian cucumbers, basil and oregano. With the grilled cheese and beautiful slices of heirlooms and cherry tomatoes, it’s a great way to change up the traditional dish.”
As we begin the transition to fall, now is a still a great time to visit your favorite grower at your local farmers’ market and/or plan for next year and plant the tomato varieties you like best. We always find ourselves at the Cloverdale Nursery and at Harmony Farm Supply in Sebastopol.
And from our garden every September I make a roasted tomato sauce from Renee Kiff’s Healdsburg Tribune column years ago (which I believe came from Mary Villemaire and was originally from Sunset magazine), and I freeze it and enjoy it year round.
Of course, dine at your favorite restaurant, and taste how masterful chefs are putting the freshest and best ingredients to optimal use. You’ll be inspired.
Feel so fortunate to live in Sonoma County. Next month: olives.
Gayle Okumura Sullivan is co-owner, with husband Brian, of Dry Creek Peach & Produce in Healdsburg.
