Healdsburg’s new wine bar, Maison, opened its doors in early June and quickly established its place in the order of things in town. Situated at 210 Healdsburg Ave., just north of the roundabout, Maison is without signage, but an inviting hand-painted sandwich board beckons pedestrians to drop in.
What is lovely about the Maison space is its simplicity, with an aesthetic evocative of the village wine bars one happens upon in Provence. The interior is spacious, sprinkled with rough-hewn wood tables and bentwood chairs, and the lounge area up front is perfect for people watching and decompressing with a glass of pinot noir.
The vibe at Maison is pleasantly low-key, unpretentious and simple. There is an expansive wine list, of course, beer and sake, plus a few basic high-quality nibbles in the way of international cheeses, fancy tinned seafood, smoked salmon and caviar, all with artful accompaniments.
In a town surrounded by world-renowned wine appellations and infused with Michelin-star restaurants, opening a wine bar was a bold move. But Maison’s trio of young and enthusiastic proprietors, Jade and Evan Hufford and Ryan Knowles, were up to the task.
This trio met as part of the opening team at the renowned SingleThread, all having previous stints at other fine dining establishments—both of the Huffords with Michael Mina in San Francisco and elsewhere, Knowles at Madrona Manor among others.
Despite their haute connections, Knowles noted, “Our interest was not in emulating the places we had worked, but rather in opening a wine bar perfect for hanging out with people in the neighborhood and with our friends in the industry. This had, in fact, been Jade and Evan’s dream for over a decade.”
Wine selections include a variety of reds and whites from familiar California appellations such as Santa Ynez, Sonoma Coast, Paso Robles, Napa Valley and Mendocino. Also of note is a generous mix of varietals from France, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Italy and Spain, most not readily found in local wine shops.
Maison also collects one-of-a-kind California vintages from the ’70s and ’80s, primarily in the way of zins, cabs and pinot noirs. These scruffy bottles are sprinkled throughout the tasting room to pique interest.
Knowles hopes folks will not find their vast wine list daunting. “We enjoy conversing with everyone who comes in and hearing what varietals and labels they typically enjoy. From there we can direct them to options from our collection,” he said.
“We also encourage guests to try ‘side-by-side tastings,’ where we pair one of our California varietals with a similar European wine,” he continued. “The goal is for guests to enjoy a unique wine tasting experience from a familiar point of reference.”
For the jaded palates of local sommeliers and wine educators, it is inviting to have wines of this caliber readily available in the neighborhood, by the glass. Pours are usually a generous five ounces.
Building a following is always the big challenge with any new venture. But to their advantage, this trio has a cadre of thirsty friends in the way of chefs, kitchen crew, bartenders, waiters and the like, who comprise a large percentage of Maison’s clientele. After a late-night shift, Maison is perfect for enjoying a drink, unwinding and shooting the breeze without a manager within earshot.
Though there is no place for pétanque courts out front, as one might see in Provence, here’s to hoping Maison considers adding a pool table and a stack of games and cards at the end of the bar, perhaps some late-night croque monsieurs and the occasional acoustic guitarist.
And they will soon need more tables and chairs because as word gets out, this locals’ wine bar is sure to be packed.
Maison Healdsburg, 210 Healdsburg Ave., maisonwinebar.com. Open 2pm to 2am, Friday through Tuesday.
