Country Roads

Renee Kiff
Each time I see a bundle of asparagus wrapped with wide, blue
rubber bands supporting the firm posture of a pound of the green
spears, I remember my mom and dad. In their older years, after mom
was unable to shop and cook, Papa took over the kitchen. She never
was comfortable with the change in command.
“He thinks he’s a cook,” she’d comment, her voice tinged with
sadness and derision.
He was doing the best he could and he did rather well. His
Sunday morning pancakes were famous, though the mix came from a
box. He wielded a mean barbeque fork and could bake a potato and
boil an egg. He fixed hot cereal for mom but insisted upon calling
it “mush” which didn’t do much for her sensitivity and love of
words.
In the spring Papa would buy his favorite vegetable, asparagus,
as often as he saw them at market. Mom complained about the
regularity of their appearance on her plate but my siblings and I
were firmly on Papa’s side.
“Mom, they are SO GOOD!”
They are so good, in fact, that they are the fifth best
vegetable for nutritional importance listed by the University of
California.
Each spring we are so lucky to have some of the tastiest
seasonal vegetables in our super markets and at the year ‘round
farmers’ market in Santa Rosa. In articles past I’ve explained what
vegetable does what and by what count, but this year I am going to
be simpler. You have the internet and can look up all their
virtues.
Broccoli, of course, occupies the top slot.
The next nine, in order: spinach, Brussels sprouts, lima beans,
peas, asparagus, artichokes, cauliflower, sweet potatoes,
carrots.
Others are outstanding in one or two categories, such as the
little green we look upon as window dressing – parsley. It is a
champion of iron, with 6.2 milligrams compared to second place beet
greens with 3.3.
Lima beans, though number four overall, is number one or two in
thiamine, iron, phosphorus, protein, and, unfortunately, fat.
The aforementioned beet greens aren’t even listed in the U. of
C. chart but are very high in riboflavin, sodium, potassium and
iron.
By the time this story is published, I will be with my youngest
son’s family in Minneapolis. They are expecting a new baby girl,
matching their old baby girl who will be three in June. I will be
able to cook a bit for them and it is my fond hope to present some
lively colored vegetables for my granddaughter. I am hoping that
California’s bounty will find its way to the super markets in
Minnesota.
There are so many wonderful vegetables with which we are
unacquainted, like parsnips, for instance. They grow in northern,
snowy climates and our Michigan friend, Noel Adams, called them his
favorite vegetable. I found them near the carrots and next to the
turnips and rutabagas — in other words, clustered with the root
vegetables.
They taste quite carrot-like but are much smoother. I am tempted
to bundle all of the root vegetable family and cook them together,
sort of like a collateralized debt obligation from Wall Street.
Color-wise and texture-wise I believe this would be quite pretty,
particularly with some chopped fresh parsley sprinkled on top.
I wonder if my small granddaughter has ever been presented with
an artichoke? That California famous thistle reminds me also of a
story: a family from Mississippi moved to our school district when
we lived in Novato in the 70s. One evening the mother called me on
the phone.
“Renee, I am serving artichokes and I don’t think I’ve cooked
them long enough. When are they done?”
Upon asking a few careful questions, it turned out they were
trying to chew the whole choke. I wish I’d been there to hear them
wonder aloud what “Californians ever saw in these things,” a
comment relayed later by Shirley the southern cook and hostess.
I believe I’ll pack some asparagus bundles into my carry-on
tomorrow. Chances are little Tatum Marie, nearly three, has some of
her great grandfather’s genes and will enjoy dipping those tender
spears in a bit of mayo.
Renee Kiff weeds and writes at her family farm in Alexander
Valley.