90 percent of fruit was already in tanks and barrels when fires broke out
Sonoma County’s 2017 winegrape harvest will be forever known for a much bigger story that had nothing to do with working in the vineyards, crushing grapes into juice or making wine.
And, we all know that story is the historic wildfires that burned over 10 percent of the county’s 1 million acres and destroyed more than 5,000 homes. Most call it the Tubbs Fire, but it was much bigger than a single fire.
Before the Oct. 9 fires struck, with as much as 90 percent of the fruit already safely in tanks and barrels, local growers were remarking on another very promising crop.
The widely spread fires above Sonoma Valley and along the Mayacama ridges abruptly put the final days of harvest on hold while vineyard access was cut off in many places and all eyes and available volunteers watched the threatening flames.
In the aftermath, about a dozen winery properties sustained fire destruction or damage and some vineyards were scorched.
Final pickings of cabernet sauvignon and other late-ripening varietals did not happen in some places and a few vineyard owners lost some crop sales.
All in all, the 2017 winegrape crop is predicted to weigh in between 210,000 to 225,000 tons. That’s not as heavy as last year, but it’s better than the recent drought-impacted harvests of 2011-2015.
The source of heat that had the most impact on the 2017 winegrape crop wasn’t from the wildfires; it was from a record heat spell over the Labor Day weekend.
After a long and temperate growing season that started in mid-March, the 110 degree heat streak in early September sent some vines into shock and boosted sugars to premature ripeness.
Growers scrambled and hurried harvesting crews into vineyards. Others sprayed water on their vines to preserve cluster juices and most were left to wait to see what Mother Nature might toss at them next.
What came next was a few days of unseasonable rain showers that confused both the vines and the farmers.
“Every day turned out to be an adventure,” said winegrape grower and Sebastopol winery owner John Balletto. “I have to tell you, this was my hardest harvest ever.”
And then came the wildfires. Balletto picked his final grapes (zinfandel) on Oct. 18 along Guerneville Road.
“We thought we were having major problems (due to Labor Day weather, mixed with sudden rain),” said Balletto. “But that was nothing compared to what happened to people who lost houses or even family to the fires.”
As many as 300 farmworkers lost houses in the fires that destroyed entire neighborhoods in northern Santa Rosa and residential areas in Sonoma Valley’s Glen Ellen and Kenwood.
Sonoma County Winegrape Commission President Karissa Kruse and former director Nick Frey both lost their Fountaingrove and Mark West homes in the fire.
The single biggest loss was the total destruction of Paradise Ridge Winery and its vineyards owned by the Byck family.
Over time, each vintage acquires a name or tagline. Perhaps this one will become the SonomaStrong Harvest of 2017.
The earliest harvest field reports in August about lots of gorgeous fruit and desired colors in the pinot noir crop continued to be enforced as the harvest progressed. Some of the chardonnay showed signs of heat stress, but more than a few winemakers were overheard expressing delight over the mature flavors and potential.
“The overall quality was really strong,” said Kruse, doing her best to conduct business as usual a week after the fire and the loss of her house. “Some of the varietals were lighter (in yield) than others but our growers were pleased.”
The year began with record winter rainfall, following five years of drought. The crucial spring blooming and bud season was mild and rain-free.
A few late season heat waves climaxed with the Labor Day thermometer-busting temperatures and a few late-maturing grapes lost some tonnage. As usual, nothing was normal.
“Looking back, what didn’t look so good at the time (Labor Day heat) actually helped us by making for an earlier harvest ahead of the wildfires,” said Balletto.
Otherwise there may have been fewer mature grapes left on the vines to be tainted by wildfire smoke. “We had other issues but I don’t think the smoke on the vines will be a problem,” Balletto said.
Going into the growing season, the top concern was a possible shortage of labor, due mainly to the uncertain immigration policies of the new Trump Administration.
“It was still a big conversation but everyone seemed to have navigated through it okay,” said Kruse. “The tougher challenge turned out to be all the extra logistics the growers went through moving crews, trucks and bins ahead of the heat and early compacted harvest.”
More growers and wineries resorted to mechanized picking and Kruse said many of her members used more full-time workers and less seasonal crews, except for an increased number in H2A federal documented workers.
The total farmworker force this year totalled about 2,200 men and women said Kruse. According to a recent UC Davis survey, the winegrape harvest laborers in Sonoma and Napa counties are the highest paid in the world.
Other segments of the county’s farm community and ag industry also were disrupted by the wildfires. Livestock had to be evacuated, along with humans as a precaution.
Reports of significant damages to some medical cannabis operations were heard and local farmers’ market sessions were temporarily cancelled or postponed.
Rain or no rain, fires or no fires, agriculture production remains Sonoma County’s largest economic sector, even without counting its tourism, special events and world-famous marketing prowess.
Total crop production was $898 million in 2016, the most recent available totals ahead of the 2017 tally )that won’t be completed until early 2018).
Winegrapes ($586 million) were two-thirds of that total followed by dairy ($146 million), poultry ($40 million), cattle and other livestock ($51 million, nursery stock ($27 million), vegetables ($10 million) and apples ($5.5 million).
Led by the Winegrowers Commission with 1,800 farmer-members, Sonoma County’s ag identity and farming practices are recognized as national leaders in sustainable farming and production practices.
Almost two-thirds (60 percent) of total vineyard acreage across 1,220 individual vineyard properties have been certified as sustainable. The 2017 wine vintage will be the first year where wine bottles will carry a new ‘Sustainably Farmed Grape’ label whenever at least 85 percent of the grapes were grown in Sonoma County as opposed to blended with grapes from other locations.
“Sonoma County is a beautiful place to live and farm. We are blessed to live in a county where farmers and the community alike embrace the concept of sustainable farming,” said county ag commissioner Tony Linegar in his annual report.
The county’s farmers are the leading open space and natural beauty preservationists, Linegar said. “That’s why Sonoma County is such a desireable place for resident s and visitors” he said.
The 2017 wildfires will have lasting impacts on the county’s ag industry along with all other economic sectors and individual lives.
But Kruse said Sonoma County still has a very positive story to keep telling the rest of the world.
Although several recent marketing events and seminars were cancelled during the fires, Kruse said her 1,800 members led by an executive board of 11 men and women will continue their efforts to reach 100 percent sustainability as an industry by 2019.
Speaking about the impact of the fires and rumors about any smoke taint, Kruse said, “my members have worked too hard to ever put out any crappy wine.”
