Thank you dear readers, for your thoughts and prayers throughout these past months as I lay recovering from a life-threatening illness. As I emerged back into living, sadly I discovered that my dear colleague and friend, Davis Bynum, was failing.
What does one say about a man for whom so many have such enormous respect? A man who epitomized the word integrity; a man to whom we in Sonoma County owe a debt of gratitude for his vision, risk taking, dedication and pioneering winegrowing efforts.
Davis Bynum was a Renaissance man in every sense of the word. A talented writer, who prior to being a legend in crafting artisan pinot noir initially from grapes grown by Joe Rochioli, wrote for the San Francisco Chronicle. His vast knowledge of history, political science, literature, music and art made for rich content in writing, and in balancing complex Russian River Valley wines.
A humble man, when entertaining media and trade to promote his wines, Davis would speak of just about anything other than the wines, which were an extension of his soul. Not to mention, he was too culturally diverse to focus on merely one subject.
When I first met Davis to represent his brand with marketing, I was in awe. Soft spoken and full of grace, he made wines that were a tangible reflection of his character.
Davis found a way to integrate his children into his passion for winegrowing. The family was among the first in Sonoma County to nurture a permaculture garden within a vineyard, an endeavor headed by his son, Hampton.
While learning what distinguished the pinot noir, chardonnay and other varieties that flourished on the estate vineyards, I was educated about natural ecosystems. Bountiful crops cultivated in and around the vines promoted a healthy growing environment with delicious results from walnuts to wine grapes.
Davis’ daughter Susie was an integral part of the marketing team. Working on a label revision, she suggested using sections of her mother’s watercolor of a favorite estate vineyard. The exquisite artwork, painted from decades of appreciation of living on the land, greatly enhanced the wines.
My favorite Davis Bynum story was when we planned a trip to New York City in honor of a dinner at the James Beard House. This was long after his beloved wife, Dorothy, had passed and Davis was venturing into the world in a new way.
I knew that if I could get Davis to New York, he’d be a luminary with wine’s top media. He seemed nervous about going to the Big Apple. Raised in New York, I called him immediately upon my arrival.
The day of our big dinner it was raining. My father, with whom I was staying, insisted upon arranging for a car (code word for limousine). I explained that Davis was a farmer and a humble man and would not appreciate being picked up in a fancy limousine. Like most arguments with my father, I acquiesced and must admit to being grateful when the car waited in the torrential rains.
To my surprise, Davis was delighted by the limousine. In fact, upon entering, he leaned in and asked the driver to make a stop in Gramercy Park. Baffled, I asked who was joining us, as he’d merely been in the city two days prior to my arrival. We stopped in front of an elegant brownstone. Davis went to the door and a regal woman appeared. I was dumbfounded as I sat smack dab in the middle of sexual energy between these 70 year olds that could be cut with a knife.
Needless to say, this was a memorable night for so many of us. Thunder and lightning dramatically lit the skies, opening and slamming lead glass windows of the James Beard House, as one course after another was served to complement Davis Bynum wines.
Although it was Davis’ role to introduce each wine, that night he only had eyes for Virginia. To this day, when I see our writer guests from the New York Times, Food & Wine, Fortune, among so many others, they ask about the lovebirds. We smile in remembering this incredible romance that began on a hot and stormy night in New York.
After dinner, Davis slipped me $20 for a taxi, saying he and Virginia would be walking home. I smiled, thinking it was the most romantic winemaker dinner I’ve ever attended. Three days later, working at my desk in Healdsburg, Davis called from New York to tell me that he and Virginia were to be married.
Davis Bynum was a prince of a man. A man who knew what he wanted and followed his dreams. Davis made a huge impact on Sonoma County: our vineyards, our wines and our community. Thank you Davis, for the example you were in living a balanced, complex life full of grace, inspired by the love of your family and the fruit of your vines.
Marie Gewirtz represents wine and food clients with marketing and communications in Sonoma County and throughout the world. She can be reached at wi*******@so********.com.
